a pre-assembled case

1. please do not peel off the internal film unless you'll put it back after inspection and photo shoots

2. check external surfaces for dents, scratches and blemishes over 2mm

3. daughterboard and JST cable installed on the case (do not remove)

   

   

PCB and plate of your choice (and extras too)

a set of 80% owlstab

1. a set of stab shims in black and gold
2. washers available if you you prefer it over the shims
3. 7u x 1 and 2u x 4 with screws

3 foams

1. plate poron

   

2. PE sheet

   

3. case poron

   

rubber feet x 6

aluminum artisan x 1

you need to prepare

1. stab lube
2. modded switches x 90
3. keycaps (7u space bar, 1.5u ctrl and alt x 2, 1u win x 2 and whatever ISO keys you plan to use)
4. H1.5 hex key or screw bit (H1.3 for standoff screws if applicable)
5. PH00 screwdriver or bit for stab
6. scissors
7. deskmat or anything that can serve as a cushion between desk surface and the keyboard (highly recommend)
8. a USB-C cable

take out the entire keyboard and flip it upside down

test the pcb

1. open up via
2. connect the JST cable from daughterboard to PCB and then plug in your USB cable
3. now your Mr. Suit should be detected by VIA and you should see a keymap setting interface under the CONFIGURE section
4. go to KEY TESTER, open Test Matrix

use a pair of tweezers to connect the two legs of each hotswap socket from the back side of the PCB or if it's solder, connect the two solder pads for each and every key until they all turn pink (credit: Yan)

if any of them doesn't turn pink, pm Syrah in Discord or email [email protected]

now detach your PCB

flip the keyboard body upside down on your deskmat or cushion

take out 8 screws using the H1.5 bit/allen key (if you find problems at this step, please reach out to Syrah in the discord or via [email protected] immediately; DO NOT KEEP TURNING if you cannot get enough grip

put on the rubber feet to protect the bottom case

place the case aside and take out the PCB, PE foam and stabs

place PE sheet on the PCB (use stab cutouts as positioning reference)

lube the stabs and install them on the PCB, (DO NOT FORCE THE WIRE IN), also note that you only need either the red washers or the shims under the screws, not both unless it's loose after installation if you got a r2 or r3 unit, this step should be much easier and please remember to put in the wire tray to reduce noise due to wire wiggling

take out your plate poron foam and cut the spacebar foam loose as the red lines indicated

put the spacebar foam and plate foam (if preferred) on

for hotswap PCB, you can now install the standoffs x3 (optional)

1. standoffs

   

2. bottom cap head screws on the back of the PCB

   

3. put on the plate

   

4. install flat head screws on the plate

   

put on the switches

1. put on the plate if you decided to skip the stand offs

2. for hotswap PCB, you need to hold the back of each socket while shoving in the switches, please make sure the pins are straight and switches are sitting vertically while being pushed in; do not force it in when you feel too much pressure on your hand, make sure the direction is correct and check the edges of your switches to see if it's too big (especially for Gaterons) or if the pins are bent during the installation

3. for solder PCB, first a few switches will be hard to solder and they are also crucial to help align your PCB, plate and foams

4. start from the corners

5. do R. F. Y. H. I. K, [, ', delete first to avoid concave or convex plate/PCB (POM will still be concaved a little since it's too soft but will become flat in a few days)

6. finish the edges

7. note that the non-stepped caps is in reversed direction

8. mount the rest switches (and solder up)

   

wear the gasket socks

sit the PCB and plate combo on the mid frame - thicker side is the top/north side as indicated in this picture

take out the top case and put it on top of the mid frame

HOLD and flip the entire thing and install the six screws

if you want to put on the case foam, do it now and make sure the foam around the arrow keys sit flush

close the back case

CAREFULLY HOLD the entire thing and flip back, be careful it's HEAVY

lift the top+mid case

align the JST cable in the trough - perhaps stick it with a small tape because if it doesn't sit flush you might not be able to close the case

plug in the JST cable on PCB - do not force it, gently push it in with your thumb and index fingers (DO NOT USE THE COLOR OF WIRE AS REFERENCE, AIM THE PINS BEFORE INSERTING)

HOLD the keyboard and flip it back, again, very carefully please

install the 8 case screws in diagonal orders (do half for the top left → half in for the bottom right → half in for the bottom left, etc.)

plug in USB and enjoy!

1. check if Mr. Suit is detected in the Device Manager
   1. if yes
      1. download zadig2.7
      2. open, click option, tick list all devices
      3. in the dropdown menu, you should see Mr. Suit Interface 0/1/2/3
      4. please check if their drivers are all HidUsb
      5. if not, replace the driver of whichever isn't to USB Serial (CDC)
         1. go to device manager, in the COM and LPT section you should see a Mr. Suit (Interface x) (COMx) with warning sign
         2. right click it and select update driver
         3. search from my computer - let me pick from a list - USB input device - next step - install
         4. good to go
      6. if yes, pm Syrah
   2. if not, check your JST cable, it might be loose or the pins in the JST socket might be bent (esp when it worked before but stopped working after you build/rebuild)
      1. ok it might not fix the problem - pm Syrah to check if your PCB is DOA if you haven't started the build
      2. don't tell me you didn't test your PCB prior to building it ok?
2. if above doesn't solve the problem